Well, since we've been in Playa for almost a month now, we've received all of our bills! Before we relocated to QROO I extensively searched for the cost of living with a huge variety of results. Eventually I posted here and several forum members offered really great advice. To return the favor, I thought I'd post our actual cost of living as it might be helpful for others contemplating relocating to the area All of the costs are listed per month and for 2 people (where applicable.) Rent: 7500 MXP ( ~580 USD) Originally, I wanted to spend less than this on rent here, but after Laura decided to come with me and after the huge amount of visit requests from friends and family (ah, peer pressure) we decided on a place that was slightly more expensive but unbelievably more convenient. We have a 2 bedroom 1 bathroom apartment that was provided furnished (fridge, stove, dining room table/chairs, living room chairs/coffee table, and beds in both rooms with night stands.) It's in a very private (but not gated) and quiet area, 2 blocks from 5th avenue, 3 blocks from the beach, and walking distance to Walmart. It's about a 4 minute to walk to the beach and about a 15 minute walk to Walmart. You can go more upscale than us (we are simple people), as there are "luxury" apartments near us in the 11000 MXP to 16000 MXP range. You can also go considerably lower scale than us if you are willing to sacrifice the location, furnishings, or who knows what other kind of amenities. We've seen 2 bedroom apartments in "decent" parts of the city (say in an 8-10 block range from the beach) for around 4500 MXP. The further out you get, the cheaper it is (until you get to the newer "subdivisions".) There really are accomodations for any price range. Most places require a deposit equivalent to one month's rent. Gas and (non-drinking) Water: 120 MXP The gas is only used for cooking and the water is what is on tap. Not drinkable (although maybe if you boil it?) -- we have a dead gecko in our water tank on the roof I haven't been able to fish out yet Drinking Water: 44-64 MXP The 20 liter water jugs cost 22 MXP at our local tiendita. The first time you will pay a 44 MXP surcharge (or deposit?) for the bottle and after that you just exchange. We drink a good amount of water: 40-60 liters per month. Electricity: 900 MXP The electric bills come every 2 months here, so this month we received it for our first month here and the previous month when the unit was vacant. From what I can tell, the vacant month had 75 MXP worth of charges and the remainder was for our month (really 26 days.) Although our apartment has 3 ACs (1 in each bedroom and 1 in the kitchen), we only use the one in our bedroom. We run it on low, setting 3, pretty much constantly as having a refreshing room in the house is always nice and it is absolutely necessary at night to sleep without being drenched in sweat. The daytime temperatures in the main part of the house (sans AC) hover around 84 and 82 at night. We keep our bedroom around 75 constantly, although I'm hoping as it cools down ever so slightly, we can shift away from using it so damn much. Our bill is higher than I'd like, but about 60% cheaper than my utility bill in the midwest in the winter. Cable and Internet: 469 MXP We took a Cablemas deal giving us 80 TV channels and 1 MB internet for the above price, with an installation fee of 300 MXP. Getting internet set up was a week long affair -- but the service has been rock steady; and I'm on the internet a LOT, as it's how I work. I was worried that the 1 MB wouldn't be fast enough (having 100 MB in the States), but they didn't have any package deals for the 4 MB service and prices get steep quickly. Thankfully, the 1 MB has been more than adequate, although upload times are slow: never more than 40 KB/s and often around 15 KB/s. US Phone service (via Magic Jack): 20 USD/year I picked up a Magic Jack in the states (40 USD) before we came down; probably my wisest investment. Although I occasionally have to replug the stupid thing in multiple times and call quality can be...shady, it more or less works. For the price, you can't beat free incoming/outgoing calls to the States. Local Cell phone service (via TelCel): 400 MXP in air time This has been the one killer for us. Laura's parents live in Jalisco, and the outgoing rate is 6 pesos a minute -- that adds up fast. Local calls aren't much better at 4 pesos a minute. We looked at other carriers but really couldn't find a better deal. It's unfortunate and we are looking for alternatives. Also, despite the myriad cell phones we have, we had to buy another one that was TelCel specific. We bought a mid range phone, but the cheapest we encountered was around 350 MXP. Groceries: 1600 MXP We almost exclusively eat in at the house, so we cook a lot, and in turn need a lot of groceries. Fortunately, this has been a big saver for us. In the US, we routinely spent about 90 USD a week on groceries ... more than double what we spend here, yet we eat considerably better here. One thing to avoid: Langostino lobster tail was 750 MXP per kilo at Walmart the other day -- ouch!! Cigarettes: 24 MXP per pack Smokes are about one third the cost as in the US, which is really great for the wallet and really terrible for me stopping. It also should be noted that if you want cigarettes in the tourist zones, a la Cuban cigar shop XYZ, they run around 37 MXP per pack. Eating out: 100 MXP to 500 MXP per dinner for 2 We don't eat out much, but we have tried to get a taste for a lot of the local fare. We can easily get shrimp tacos and a few beers for 100 MXP at any of the various street restaurants. If you head down 5th you'll pay more, 300 to 500 MXP for a nice meal with a couple of drinks. I'm sure you can find some really nice fine dining experiences for more than that, but we don't actively seek those places out Going out for drinks: 150 MXP to 350 MXP for a good night On the back street bars, 2 people can lose track of drinks pretty easily for under 200 MXP. On 5th avenue a bucket of beer (5 bottles) runs 170 MXP and cocktails range from 65 - 170 MXP depending on size (which varies immensely!) Taxis: From 5th and Benito Jaurez to Walmart will run from 20 to 35 MXP. It's weird how the fares are never the same, although 20 MXP is the most common. From the same place to Soriana runs around 40 MXP. The key with the taxis is to flag down one that's moving in the street -- prices at the taxi stands are almost always double. Not sure why -- premeditated tourist trap? Excursions: Obviously this will vary widely, but I love, love, love to do 3 things down here: snorkel, dive, and fish You can charter a panga off the beach in Playa to take you to one of several reefs for 2.5 hours for around 40 USD a person -- if you take the tourist route. Be friendly, speak Spanish, tell the guys you are now a local (which they rarely believe...until they see you every day for a month) and you can get the same trip for 20 USD per person. Fishing prices seem a little more non-negotiable. I've yet to do it since coming back down here and for a half day (max 4 people) in a panga it runs about 200 USD. The larger charters (up to 12 people) climb in price quickly to 500 USD for a half day. Want a full day? Add 75% of the half day price on Clothes: I have no reason to buy clothes here as I have to go back to the US often, and Laura refuses to buy clothes outside of Guadalajara, so I don't have much to say here really. I did buy a nice pair of white linen pants for 28 USD which seems...reasonable? Electronics: Interestingly enough, TVs are only about 10-20% higher here than in the US for the newer flat panels, although the older CRT-style ones are about 30% higher. I figured that would have been reversed, but what do I know. Computers, on the other hand, are considerably more expensive. After paying duties on my PC flying in, I can safely say it is cheaper to buy in the US, bite the bullet in aduanas, and go on your merry way; a near identical model (but slightly inferior in every capacity) in Elektra was 2.5 times the cost of mine in the US. Ugh. I'll just pay 15% in duties, thanks. Hot Water: 0 MXP That is to say, we don't have it Well, technically we could have it, but we don't take advantage. Confused? Good! Basically, for hot water you have to use a boiler, which uses electricity. Ok, no big deal. Well, our maintence guy told us on the first day to use it with care...that using it frequently would result in 500 MXP worth of electricity charges a month. I find that quite high to the point of skepticism, but there's no way I'll pay 500 MXP just to have hot water to shower. Especially when the water comes out of the tap in the mid-70s, which for me is a brisk shower, but not breath-taking. Laundromat: 100 MXP + 100 MXP in detergent The laundromats are cheap, mostly dirty, and ... just generally uncomfortable feeling. I can't tell you why, but it's defintely not my favorite place to be. Mordidas: 0 MXP ... so far! Since we don't drive here, I think we eliminate about 90% of our chance to run into this problem (and maybe the government's anti-bribing commercials will help too!) One night our taxi driver was pulled over, and that was an ordeal with quite the fishing attempt by the officer. But largely we were spared any involvement and the driver ended up leaving with the same amount of change he started with. On a seperate occasion, I was walking alone at night on a mostly deserted street when I saw an officer change direction and head straight for me (I don't think I looked lost...at least I wasn't). So, I headed straight for him, got in the first word (a question about a local restaurant and in Spanish) and that was the end of that. He seemed a bit perplexed but didn't say anything more and kept going on his way. I think that about covers it. This post ended up being stupidly long :/ But hopefully it is full of helpful details for any potential ex-pats lurking about out there, dreaming of a Caribbean home!
This is excellent information. Thank you so much for putting it out there. I know a lot of people are wondering about this type of stuff but you never want to ask someone.. "hey what do you pay for...." So thanks again... Jamie
Not a problem at all. I'm glad you think it is helpful! We live an openly modest lifestyle - whether people think that is out of necessity or by choice matters little to me I really belive it is helpful information. I scoured the net for the same thing during my planning phase, and thankfully the good folks here at CC helped me out immensely. It's hard to beat concrete, firsthand information; that's why I tried to include as much detail as possible - to eliminate relativity. It seems to me that more and more people will be looking to live exactly where they want as the ability to work remotely becomes more common. And who wouldn't want to live here??
You seem like such a lovely person! Interesting reading your prices and commentary...it truly seems like you've picked up more than your average transplant in such a short amount of time! A few comments and tips: -somehow white linen pants and backstreet bars don't go together! Wonder how long you'll keep those clean. -giggled at your comment about your girlfriend only buying clothes in Guadalajara...toda una tapatia! and I say that with affection! -sounds like you've got a great system wit the a/c...but I'd also recommend getting a hammock for naps or if your a/c ever goes on the fritz...if you don't already have hamaqueros (almost all cheap housing will have them in at least a couple of rooms, but in nicer housing catering to expats, I don't think so), then it's pretty cheap to get a guy to put some in. I imagine Playa has a similar system as Cancun in that there are areas where workmen/tradesmen congregate for day labor. While I've even used them for electrical and plumbing work, I wouldn't recommend that, but putting a couple hamaqueros in should be a no-brainer. Especially because, though I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemy, I spent most of my time in Cancun without a/c and would sometimes sleep in a hammock on the hottest nights. -I also lived without hot water for years. I truly didn't remember hearing what you did about the electric bill...just pure laziness in getting gas. But you will reach a point where your showers aren't brisk but painful. Only for a couple months out of the year. I'd just heat water on the stove, fill a bucket, and bathe with a jicara or bowl. And just wondering...read your blog post with sunset pictures and am now curious where you are working!
Thank you gabacha - I try One of my main goals was integrating as best as possible as quickly as possible. While I am still very much a gringo, I'm pretty happy with my adjustments thus far Some responses! -the linen pants are actually for a wedding; I have to return to the States next month for a friend's wedding and I wanted to maintain my south of the border style! -Si! Laura es una tapatia! No lo puedes imaginar!! SIEMPRE ella quiere arreglarse - no importa donde vamos; a la playa, tiendita, Walmart - ella necessita una hora -I feel like such a ditz -- we DO have hamaqueros in both bedrooms but I had no idea what they were!! Thank you It all clicked after I read your comment. I have to go hammock hunting tomorrow, yay! -The winter showers were already playing on my mind...I was hoping that ~80F highs in the winter could keep the tank warm, but I guess not. Well, I still refuse to pay so much for hot water so I'll just have to suffer or make due with an alternative As for work...up until this spring I worked as a software engineer in the mainstream video game industry. However, I left my stable job [to move to Mexico and] to start an "indie" studio with my long time friend and business partner. We make casual (family-oriented) games for Windows and Macintosh. We work together virtually with clients in the US. So, all I need to work is a computer and the internet, thus giving me the freedom to live where I choose. As you know, I chose Playa
Hi, Coby. Your time spent in offering the detail about your costs will be appreciated by many who are contemplating a move to this part of Mexico. I've got one thing to offer, something I've become a bit obsessed with owing to practice of the CFE to reward modest consumption of electricity with significantly lower rates and, thereby, assisting the poor (who may use less electricity); while, at the same time, encouraging the conservation of energy among the rest of the population. Here's how it works, as I understand it. If you're in tariff class C-1, like myself, you will be charged 178 pesos for the first 300 KWH of consumption; then, 534 pesos for the next 600 KWH. On the balance, above this amount, you will be charged at the significantly higher rate of 2.353 persos PER KWH. This practice will, at higher levels of consumption, produce an electric bill which looks significantly different from the one you just got. If, for example, you are averaging 38 KWH/day consumption, your next bill for the two month period would be 4,350 pesos, after adding in the 10% VAT (if my calculations are correct). The actual bill could be even higher, if you are reclassified to tariff DAC (very large consumer of electricity). I've never hit that level, so I don't know if they come to take your children, or what. I just know the local population is more or less terrified of high electric consumption, and I've heard tales of bills exceeding 500 USD for the two month period. The local offices of the CFE have a brochure which predict the exact amount of the bill, in tariff class C-1, up to the limit of 1700 KWH of consumption allowed in that class. The only safe thing to do is to keep as nearly as possible to the 900 KWH/bimester that is subsidized by the government; then your bills will remain comfortably low. [To those of you who've been here a long time, and experienced what happens at the higher rates of consumption, can you offer an experience which would shed more light on this?]
V -- thank you so, so much. That is extremely insightful. It's a fairly complicated system compared to what we had in the Midwest but it's easy enough. However, I'm now a little worried. Our first bill was for 750 kW/h -- and the unit was empty for one of the two billing months (except for workers etc.) Just by judging on that, we would be way over the subsidized 900 kW/h bimester, although still under the 1700 kW/h tariff class limit for a true 2 month period. The thing is, I can't get the math to add up for us. The only AC we use is rated at 500 watts, so 0.5 kW/h -- which means it should draw 12 kW/h of electricity for a day or 360 kW/h per month. I can't imagine that the combined electricity use for everything else in the house (which isn't much) would rival that. All we use are some lights at night, ceiling fans, the fridge, and computers on and off during the day. The next biggest draw is the fridge, which is rather new and rated at 360 kW/h per year! I just double checked the efficiency rating of my computer (50 watts), and it should only draw 30 kW/h a month if it was left on 24/7 -- which it is not. So, I am bit perplexed at where our electricity draw comes from. Just for the sake of knowledge, in the city I was living in the Midwest, the electric rates were: $0.067 kW/h for the first 500 kW/h and then $0.091 kW/h after that during the warmer months and $0.099 kW/h during the winter months.
Right, I agree with you, based on what you're saying about your usage, I'd expect you to be within the 900 KWH/bimester subsidized amount. I'm no expert on this, but there are two possibilities that I've heard discussed since I came here; they are, 1) you've got a short, somewhere, that is draining off electricity you're paying for; or, 2) you've got a neighbor who is borrowing electricity from you! These are pretty easy to test for, just unplug everything and turn off all lights, etc. (This test should be performed in the evening, after all your neighbors have returned home.) Then, check your meter. The disk in it shouldn't be moving at all. If it is, you may have a neighbor using some of your electricity. If not plug back in your appliances -one by one- but leaving them turned off, checking each time to see if the meter begins to move. If it does, there may be an electrical flaw in that appliance. If the meter doesn't turn at all, in any of these tests, then all that's left (so far as I know) is the possibility that one or more of your appliances is using more electricity than the rated amount. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the tips! I will try and track down the issue. Also, the math wasn't adding up regarding our usage (even for that more or less 1 month period) and the 900 MXP bill based on your numbers provided above. However, I checked and we are not tariff 1C -- we are tariff 1B. Do you happen to know what the subsidies are like at this tariff level, or where I can find the corresponding information? A very quick (lazy) search on the net didn't turn up the information from the CFE as I expected and the details for the tariff are not listed on the bill to the best of my decryption abilities. Thanks again! Edit: Uggh...according to this chart, things don't look good to us. Basically the 1B tariff means the rates are higher and our bimester usage has to stay at 400 kW/h. I don't think we can achieve that with our current usage. http://www.vallartascene.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11839 The only saving grace is that your tariff is adjusted (or readjusted) on a 12 month running average...so we might be able to avoid the big hit if we keep it as close as possible giving us a few months before the average adjusts. But since we live in an apartment and will likely look for different arrangements depending on our financial situation when the time comes. The only thing is, doesn't that mean the next family to live here would get hit with the loss of the tariff? That would make me feel bad...
I agree with you, I think you'll find you can't really live with a consumption of under 400 KWH/bisemester during the hotter months. We were managing it, running at under 4 KWH/day, before it got hot enough to need the a/c at all (early May). Then, of course, our usage climbed. There is another wrinkle to this that I haven't mentioned. The subsidies we've been talking about are reduced/eliminated during the cooler six months a year, starting in October (as I recall from what I read). Apparently, this is the regime they follow, year to year. It's pretty kind of them to reduce the rates during the summer, when we can't help but need more electricity, even if we're trying to conserve. I think you're right in your other conclusions, as well.
